Restaurant Nathan Outlaw
This Little Piggy went to Restaurant Nathan Outlaw - Port Isaac
The self imposed Michelin mission took us out of the usual London environs and down to the furthest South coast in Cornwall where the great fish & seafood chef Nathan Outlaw hails from. We weren't down there for Doc Martin despite what every local thought!
Nathan Outlaw had gained his two Michelin stars whilst based in Rock, Cornwall and re-located to Port Isaac in 2015 where he has successfully maintained the two star accolade with even fresher seafood as the catches of the day are dragged in by the friendly Cornish fishermen metres away from the clifftop restaurant. The quality and freshness is so evident in each dish.
After a leisurely morning and a bracing clifftop walk on a perfectly crisp Autumn day, we headed up the hill to an unassuming modern building which houses the main restaurant on the 1st floor. We opted for the more intimate bar right outside the wide kitchen hatch so we could keep track of what was going on and, coincidentally, was metres away from the wine cellar. That didn't have any bearing on our seating choice, honest.
The exclusively seafood menu was then slowly brought out over the next few hours with the perfectly paired white wine choices.
Cured Monkfish with Fennel, Ginger & Spring Onion
Crab, Apple, Kohlrabi & Tarragon
Mackerel, Oyster & Cucumber Chutney
Turbot, Leeks, Garlic Mash & Tartare Hollandaise
Despite looking like a mini frog pond, the Cured Monkfish was so delightfully fresh and light and a perfect fish ceviche.
The Crab, Apple & Kohlrabi had a lovely rich flavour and was a perfect accompaniment to the freshly baked bread served alongside, the ultimate crab mayo.
Might be a strange call out but the highlight was undoubtedly the Cucumber Chutney on the Mackerel dish, for something that is 90% water, the cucumber held up so well and was so perfect with the oily mackerel. We felt the dish didn't need the deep fried oyster though.
Meat and fish aren't traditionally known as close bed fellows but the Salt Cod & Oxtail was a really, really good match and a pan fried celeriac was mopped up with a meaty robust sauce served with it.
Then there was mash.....and garlic....a garlic mash of loveliness. A chunky hunk of Turbot with Glazed Leeks and Tartare Hollandaise was the ultimate fish dish and was quite rightly the star main. A flake of the turbot with slice of leek covered by a small mound of mash topped with the sauce all in one was unbeatable.
The dessert was so up my street it combined my favourite digestif Amaretto in syrup form with a cleansing pear and then a subtle nutty brandy snap basket type of vessel made with hazelnuts.
The staff were humorous and attentive, views spectacular and as you can read, food & beverages top rate.
Please go to this marvellous eaterie when you're next in this part of the world.
Salt Cod, Oxtail & Celeriac
Pear, Amaretto & Hazelnut Tart
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© Ali Twidale. All Rights Reserved on Images and Text
